The real Cha Chaan Teng experience

When I talk about or research about Cha Chaan Teng aka Hong Kong Styled cafes, everyone will talk or direct me to the famous Australian Dairy Cafe that supposed to be a must to go to when one goes to Hong Kong.

Interestingly, when I mentioned that cafe to my Hong Kong friends, I was immediately greeted with a big ‘NO’ and was banned from going there. I was very surprised at first because that is like the holy-grail of Cha Chaan Teng.

Apparently to the natives, it isn’t so. It’s more of an institution that caters mainly to tourists now.

That set me back thinking: there are places too in Singapore I would avoid visiting, because it’s not the same kind of hang-outs I would go to as it has become too touristy.

Inside HK Cha Chaan Teng
Inside a typical HK Cha Chaan Teng

So instead of a rowdy over-crowded tourist trap, I was treated with a real experience of a native Cha Chaan Teng.

It’s quite interesting since I had doubts initially as I followed my friend into this little dingy place inside a lane between two buildings, but somehow, a realization sparked inside me.

THIS IS WHAT A TRAVEL BLOGGER SHOULD WRITE ABOUT! Discovering new or hidden places, venture outside the beaten path.

Ironically, this so-called outside the beaten path, is actually the everyday path of the locals.

So, as we approached this shop, a old-lady, probably in her 50s/60s came to greet us. I was not expecting the nice “Irasshaimase!” greeting one would experience in Japanese store, her short, polite response was still surprise to me, as it wasn’t the quintessential Hong Kong Cha Chaan Teng experience – the rude service and noisy, rowdy atmosphere.

“How many people?” She asked. My friend replied “2” in Cantonese. She then pointed us to the corner booth and we both sat down.

It was another world inside the Cha Chaan Teng. The shop was unusually quiet, except for the rhythmic slurping of instant noodles and the clanging sound made by metal spoon stirring in their metal cups of hot drinks.

This wasn’t the Cha Chaan Teng I came to know about from television and the commercial joints in Singapore.

This version of Cha Chaan Teng felt, real; I meant, the real Hong Kong residential life. Not the televised/dramatized or SG-localised version, oh, and of course, not the tourist-trappy version.

HK Cha Chaan Teng Menu Boards
HK Cha Chaan Teng Menu Boards

After a quick decision (I tried not to hesitate too long), my friend proceed to order their Classic breakfast set B, which consist of a serving of scrambled eggs, toast and ham and macaroni soup. It also came with a hot drink, which I chose their Hong Kong Milk Tea.

Well, it’s all about trying the classics, isn’t it?

Breakfast was very affordable, about HKD28 (approximate SGD4.90 / USD3.50) for a set.

Classic Breakfast Set B
Classic Breakfast Set B: Toast, egg and Macaroni Soup

At first glance, I was kinda taken aback the quality of the food. Haha~ As a self-proclaimed foodie and living in a food paradise — Singapore; I have long taken for granted that any food that we paid for must command a certain degree of standard (then of course there are food that I deem passable, but people still queue for those because the queue is short or very cheap). 

And yet, I was there in this small Hong Kong Cha Chaan Teng, putting aside all the hyped-up places recommended online; trying what the locals eat for breakfast everyday.

Scrambled egg

I was served a sunny-side up egg instead of a scrambled egg. Luckily my friend was willing to change the egg with me. It was not a big deal for her because this is the most common type of breakfast the locals eat, much like how we treat our kaya and butter toast in Singapore. It’s something we eat everyday, so anything goes.

Despite the looks, the scrambled egg was delicious. Till today, I still could not phantom how this unappetizing piece of yellow splat can taste so good.

Unfortunately, the verdict was opposite for the macaroni soup. The soup, as plain as you can see and if you ever serve that kind of macaroni soup in Singapore, I highly doubt that anyone would be interested to pay for it.

Classic Breakfast Set B
Classic Breakfast Set B: Milk Tea

Interestingly, I also noticed another phenomenon in the Cha Chaan Teng. Almost everyone else were ordering the instant noodles, whether it was a combination with ham, spam, hotdogs or pork chop, it was always with instant noodles. Accompanying the noodles was a glass of iced lemon tea.

(If you see the above image of my tea, another customer across me ordered noodles.)

Instant noodles was another known daily staple of the locals and I assumed that it was probably the better choice compared to the macaroni soup. It was later when I met another of my friend’s friend, who lives in Hong Kong; that I was told this very Cha Chaan Teng I visited is famous for their pork chop noodles/rice, as well as lunch/dinner items.

Now can you imagine my mind then telling me what a missed opportunity this was?!?! Oh well, maybe next time when I visit Hong Kong again.

Shopfront

‘Tup Toi’ (also known as sharing of tables) is common in Cha Chaan Teng to maximize the capacity of their shop, so that every customer has a place to sit. This phenomenon also happens at Singapore Hawker centres or food centres, where customers / locals will ask you politely they could join you at your table when there are available seats.

While I should not be unfamiliar with this occurrence; I realized that in the Cha Chaan Teng, the proximity between myself and the stranger sitting across me was much closer for comfort.

The person across me was in my personal space, and that close proximity was rather daunting, specifically to me. I am sure some of you out there are alright with this close sharing of space, for me, it was definitely a little alarming. (Well, I guess I would have felt differently if the person sitting across me was Chris Evans or Chris Hemsworth, you get what I mean. ;P)

Nevertheless, it was an eye-opener to be inside a space surrounded by locals, having breakfast before rushing off to their daily livelihood.

昌記茶餐廳
Cheong Kee Restaurant
6 Gresson Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong.
+852-28669965

I once told my foreign friends who asked me for recommendations for food to try any regular store out there first, because without a base benchmark, one cannot see the difference between OK and amazing. I guess in this experience, this concept rang true.

Now, I have a base benchmark on HK Cha Chaan Teng and other new places will be compared to this place in the future.

Are there any Cha Chaan Teng out there in Hong Kong that are unique? Sans the touristy places, of course. Comment to let me know! It maybe my future place to visit.



More stories to come~


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